Welcome to our Make by TFS Ivy pattern sew along! In this post, we go through block fusing and pre-pressing steps, sewing the bodice, neckline and collars, sleeve placket, attaching cuffs and long sleeves, short sleeves, and sleeveless version, assembling the skirt, peplum version and finishing touches.
Check out the Ivy Dress + Top pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!
P.s
Ivy makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSIvyDress or #TFSIvyTop so others can check out your creations!
Step 1 — Block fusing and Pre-Pressing
Block fusing your interfacing
To ensure accuracy, and to save time, we recommend block fusing some of your pattern pieces before sewing. Block fusing is when you apply fusible interfacing to a section of the fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces. Doing it this way means your pieces won’t stretch out of shape, which can happen if you piece fuse after. It also saves a bit of time as you only need to cut out once!
The pieces that require block fusing differ depending on the view and options you are sewing. They are indicated on the pattern and below:
Collar Options
Peter Pan — Top Collar and Neck Facing pieces
Round Neck — Neck Facing piece
Tie Back — Tie Back Collar and Back Neck Facing pieces
Sleeve/ Cuff Options
Button Cuff pieces
Tie Cuff pieces
Sleeveless Armhole Facing pieces
If you do not wish to block fuse, you can piece fuse these pattern pieces. This means cutting out each pattern piece in both interfacing and your main fabric and then applying the interfacing to each piece separately. If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don’t stretch out of shape.
Pre-pressing
We strongly recommend that you use an iron to press some areas of your pieces before you begin sewing. This will help to ensure accuracy as you sew, as well as aid in giving your Ivy Dress or Top a neat and tidy finish. These pressing guidelines apply to both the Dress and the Top views.
Press the button loop in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Open out, then fold the outer edges to meet at the centre crease line. Fold in half lengthways and press again. Your finished pressed piece will measure 6mm in width.
If sewing the tie back collar, fold the collar in half lengthways, wrong sides together and press.
If sewing a long sleeve option, fold the sleeve placket binding pieces in half, press wrong sides together and press. Open out, then fold the outer edges to meet at the centre crease line. Fold in half lengthways and press again. Your fnished pressed piece will measure 1cm in width.
If sewing the button cuff option, take the cuff pieces and fold them in half lengthways with the wrong sides together. Press.
If sewing the tie cuff option, take the cuff pieces and fold them in half lengthways with the wrong sides together. Press.
If sewing the Dress view, fold the side pocket pieces in half at centre notches with right sides together and press.
If sewing the Dress view, take the skirt centre panels, and the skirt side panels and fold back the 1cm hem seam allowance, then press. Next fold the hem up a further 8cm as indicated by the notch and press.
Now it is time to start sewing the bodice of your Ivy Dress or Top!
Step 2 — Sew the Bodice
First, stay stitch the front bodice neckline.
Then, on the front bodice, pin the darts and sew them from the side seam, towards the dart point. Press the dart excess down. Neaten the sides and shoulders of the front bodice.
Stay stitch neckline of back bodice pieces.
Neaten the sides, centre back and shoulder edges of the of back bodice.
Fold the button loop as shown as per your pressing at the beginning and edge stitch it closed. Now fold the piece to form a loop.
Pin the button loop on the right side of the left back bodice piece at centre back, 1cm down from the neck edge. Align the raw edges with the centre back. Baste in place.
With the right sides together, pin, then sew the two back bodice pieces together at centre back from the notch to the waist edge. Press the seam open.
Pin the front shoulder to the back shoulder with the right sides together and sew them with a 1cm seam. Repeat for both shoulders. Press the seams open.
Pin the side seams then sew them together with a 1cm seam. Press the seams open.
Now you have assembled your bodice, it is time to move on to sewing the neckline, or collar!
Step 3 — Neckline and Collars
In this post, we will go over the three neckline and collar options, a Round Neck, Peter Pan Collar, and a Tie Back Collar. Skip ahead to the option you are sewing.