Welcome to our Make by TFS Paint pattern sew along! In this post, we go through interfacing/pre-pressing steps, sewing the fronts, back and pockets, attaching the sleeves, assembly, hem and finishing touches.
Check out the Paint Dress + Top pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!
P.s
Paint makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSPaint so others can check out your creations.
Step 1 — Pressing + Interfacing
If you are sewing the long sleeve option, you may want to interface your cuff pieces depending on the weight of your fabric. This will help provide strength and stability for the button and buttonholes. This can be done by block fusing or piece fusing. Block fusing is a fusing technique whereby you apply your interfacing to a section of fabric prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It helps avoid interfacing slippage and stops your pattern pieces from stretching out of shape, and therefore ensures accuracy. It also means you only need to cut your pieces out once. Block fusing does require you to group all the pattern pieces requiring interfacing together when you cut out your pattern however, so you may require additional fabric.
If you do not wish to block fuse, you can piece fuse these pattern pieces. This means cutting out each pattern piece in both interfacing and your main fabric and then applying the interfacing to each piece separately. If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don’t stretch out of shape.
We strongly recommend that you use an iron to press some areas of your pieces before you begin sewing. This will help to ensure accuracy as you sew, as well as aid in giving your Paint Dress or Top a neat and tidy finish. These pressing guidelines apply to both the Dress and the Top views.
Press the button loop in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Open out, then fold the outer edges to meet at the centre crease line. Fold in half lengthways and press again. Your finished pressed piece will measure 5mm in width.
If you are sewing the long sleeve option, fold the cuffs in half lengthways with the wrong sides together and press.
If you are sewing the long sleeve option, fold the sleeve placket binding pieces in half, press wrong sides together and press. Open out, then fold the outer edges to meet at the centre crease line. Fold in half lengthways and press again. Your finished pressed piece will measure 1cm in width.
If you are sewing the short sleeve option, fold the seam allowance back 1cm to the wrong side at the hem and press. Fold the hem back again at the notches and press.
If you are sewing a waist tie, take the waist tie pieces and fold them in half lengthways with the wrong sides together, and press. Unfold and fold the outer edges 1cm in meeting at the centre crease line. Press. Fold your waist tie in half lengthways and press again. Your finished piece will measure 1cm in width.
In the next section, we assemble the front, including the pockets if you are sewing the dress.
Step 2 — Sew Fronts + Pockets
With the right sides of your fabric together, pin the left side front panel to the left side of the centre front piece, matching the notches. Sew them together and then neaten the seam. Press the seam towards the side panel.
Repeat for the other side.
If you are sewing the dress and would like to add pockets, continue here, otherwise move on to the next blog post.
Place one pocket bag onto the front with the right sides together and pin together at notches marked ‘pocket opening’.
Stitch a box with your sewing machine, from notch to notch, from the outside edge in, towards the pocket bag 1cm. With your needle down, turn 90 degrees and continue stitching at 1cm, parallel to the edge. Stitch down to line up with the lower notch, turn back towards the outside, and stitch towards the edge. You will have created a stitched box along the pocket opening.
Next, you need to mitre into the upper and lower corners of the box. Do this by snipping into each corner at a 45-degree angle. Use very sharp scissors and take care not to cut into your stitch line!
Fold the pocket bag out and press along the edge of the pocket opening. Under stitch the pocket opening from corner to corner.
Press the pocket bag to the wrong side, ensuring that the seam allowance either side of the opening is fully turned out.