Cass Pant — Sew Along

Welcome to our Make by TFS Cass Pant pattern sew along! In this post, we go through interfacing/pre-pressing steps, sewing the backs and jet pockets, fronts and zip, attaching the waistband and belt loops, assembly and finishing touches.

Check out the Cass Pant pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!

P.s

Cass makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSCassPant so others can check out your creations!

First, cut out your pattern pieces. We recommend block fusing the pattern pieces that require interfacing.

Block fusing is a technique where you apply your interfacing to a section of fabric prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It helps avoid interfacing slippage and stops your pattern pieces from stretching out of shape, and therefore ensures accuracy. It also means you only need to cut your pieces out once.

For the Cass Pant, these pattern pieces that require fusing are,

1. Left Waistband and Left Waistband Facing
2. Right Waistband and Right Waistband Facing
3. Jets
4. Jet Pocket Bearer
5. Fly Facing

If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don’t stretch out of shape!

Take your front and back pieces and press the hem seam allowance up 1cm towards the wrong side as indicated by the notch. Next fold the hem up a further 4cm, in line with the notches, and press again. The finished hem depth will measure 4cm.

Take the belt loop piece into thirds lengthwise as indicated by the notches with the right side out. The finished belt loop piece will measure 1.3cm.

Press your front pocket bags in half at the centre notches, right sides together.

Take the back button loop pieces and press in half. Unfold and press 5mm in towards the centre crease line. Your finished pieces will measure 5mm in width.

Now, fold the jet pieces in half lengthwise and press.

Now it is time to start sewing! Move on to constructing the backs.

Take your back leg pieces and neaten centre back and inner leg edges separately. Sew the two darts on the back trouser piece. Press the darts towards the centre back.

Apply the jet pocket opening interfacing as indicated on the Jet Pocket Template to the wrong side of the pants. Take your time to centre your interfacing over the dart points exactly. The fusing should extend 3.5cm either side of the dart points and 1.6cm above and below. Repeat for the other side.

Fold and pin your jet pieces in half with the wrong sides together and stitch them closed with a 6mm seam.

Fold your button loop pieces in half and give them a press. Open out again then bring the outer edges to meet in the centre and then fold them in half again lengthwise. Edgestitch to close then fold them into a 'U' shape.

Now we will sew the pocket bags. Start by sewing the darts at both ends of the jet pocket bag with the wrong sides together. The dart excess will be on the right side of the pocket bag.

Neaten the long, unnotched edge of the jet pocket bearer with your overlocker or preferred method. Now, pin the jet pocket bearer to the pocket bag. The wrong side of the jet pocket bearer to the right side of the pocket bag, matching up the notches. Edgestitch in place the pocket bearer in place around all four sides.

Transfer the jet pocket opening markings from the Jet Pocket Template to the right side of your back trouser piece. The line will go through the dart points and extend 2.5cm past each dart point, measuring 13cm in total. Transfer the same marking to the right side of your jet pocket bag. Make sure you use chalk or a pen that comes off easily once you’re finished so you're not left with marks.

With the back leg in front of you, right side up, place the button loop, folded as shown, in the centre of the pocket opening. Use your Jet Pocket Template as a guide. Line the raw edges up with the slash line and baste in place.

Now we will place the jet pieces. Line up the raw edge of the jet piece with the pocket opening line you marked earlier. The notches on the jet will align with the ends of the pocket opening line. Ensure that all edges line up and everything is centred then pin your jet piece in place. Sew the jet with a 6mm seam, starting and stopping exactly at the notches. It can help to mark the end of your stitching on the jet pieces to make sure you stop at the right place. Repeat for the second jet piece.