Welcome to our Make by TFS Bloom Shirt + Dress pattern sew along! In this post, we go through cutting, interfacing, and pre-pressing steps, sewing the front panels and pockets, collars and collar stand, cuffs and sleeves plackets, back yoke, sleeves and side seams, attaching the collar, and cuffs, buttons and buttonholes, and hems.
Check out the Bloom Shirt + Dress pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!
P.s
Bloom makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSBloomShirt and #TFSBloomDress so others can check out your creations!
Step 1 — Cutting, Interfacing and Pre-Pressing
Cutting
First of all you will need to trace off the pattern in the size you would like to make. If you would like to make a short sleeved Bloom Shirt or Dress you will need to transfer the short sleeve markings to your size. Simply extend the 'short sleeve cut length indication line' out to meet the seam edge of your size. Then, transfer the turn back angle and notch point, and the seam allowance angle and notch point to the seam edge of your size.
Trace around your pattern pieces on to your main fabric and cut them out. Keep the pieces that need to be interfaced to one side, we will cut these out in the next step.
Interfacing
To ensure accuracy, and to save time, we recommend block fusing your upper collar piece (if sewing the pointed or half penny collar option) and one collar stand before you begin sewing. Block fusing is when you apply fusible interfacing to a section fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces. Doing it this way mean your pieces won’t stretch out of shape, which can happen if you piece fuse after. It also saves a bit of time as you only need to cut out once!
Once you have block fused your main fabric, trace around the upper collar and collar stand pieces and cut them out.
If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don't stretch out of shape.
The cuffs and centre front plackets (if you choose to apply interfacing here), will need to be piece fused as only part of the pattern piece is interfaced. Apply the interfacing to one half of each cuff piece, and to the centre fronts of the front panels.
Pressing Before You Sew
Cuffs — Fold up the 1cm seam allowance along the long, interfaced edge of each cuff. Then fold the cuff in half at the notches with the wrong sides together.
Sleeve Plackets — Fold the vertical edges of each sleeve placket under 6mm to the wrong side and press. Then fold down 1cm at the top/short edge to the wrong side and press.
Fronts — On your front pieces, fold the long centre front edge to the wrong side 3cm, as indicated by the notches and press. Then fold under another 3cm and press. The finished front placket will measure 3cm.
Patch Pocket — Fold the top of the patch pocket piece 3cm, then 3cm again to the wrong side as indicated by the notches and press. The finished fold will measure 3cm.
Side Pocket — If you are sewing the Dress, fold the side pockets in half, right sides together, as indicated by the notches.
Dress Hem — If you are sewing the Dress view you will need to press the hem on your two front pieces, and your back piece. Fold the 1cm seam allowance to the wrong side and press. Next fold the hem up a further 8cm as indicated by the notches and press. The finished hem will measure 8cm. Just the front hem is shown here but the process is the same for the back.
Sleeve Hem — If you have chosen to sew a short sleeved Shirt or Dress you can pre-press the sleeve hems at this point too. Fold up the 1cm seam allowance to the wrong side and press. Then fold back another 3cm for the hem. The finished hem will measure 3cm.
Now it is time to start sewing, move on to step 2.
Step 2 — Front Panels and Pockets
Patch Pocket
Fold the top of the patch pocket twice towards the wrong side, as youpressed at the beginning. Edge stitch the pocket hemin place and press.
Next, stitch around the remaining three raw edges of your pocket at 1cm. Then fold and press the edges back using the stitching line to help guide you.
Now, pin the pocket to the left front as indicated by the markings on the pattern and edge stitch into place.
When attaching our patch pocket, we started 6mm from the pocket edge at the pocket hem stitch line. Then we sewed out to 10mm from the edge at the pocket opening. Next, we stitched across the top of the pocket for 10mm before pivoting and edge stitching around the sides and bottom edges. When we got the to pocket opening at the other side, we stitched along 10mm again, then down to meet the hem stitch line again, 6mm from the edge. Remember to keep your needle down when pivoting at the corners.
After you've attached your pocket, give it a gentle press.