1 — Pre-pressing
Before you start sewing, we strongly recommend that you use an iron to press some areas of your pieces. This will help to ensure accuracy as you sew, as well as aid in giving your Cloud Sweatpant a neat and tidy finish.
Fold the waistband piece in half lengthways with the wrong sides together and press.
If your waistband is in two pieces, fold both pieces in half lengthways.
Fold the pockets in half at the notches with the right sides together and press.
If you are sewing the wide leg pant, fold up the hem of the front and back pieces to the wrong side and press.
If you are sewing the tapered leg pant, fold the cuff piece in half, wrong sides together and press.
If you are wanting to apply optional fusible interfacing at the buttonholes and pockets, now is the time to do this.
On the waistband, fuse a piece, or pieces of interfacing to the wrong side at centre front, where the buttonholes are located. Use the Waistband Template to guide you.
For the pockets, cut two strips of interfacing, 2cm x 22cm. Fuse each strip to the wrong side of each front, at the pocket opening.
2 — Pockets and Assemble the Legs
With the right sides together, pin the right pocket bag to the right leg at the pocket opening. Overlock together and then press the seam towards the pocket.
Under stitch on the pocket bag with your sewing machine.
Fold the pocket bag in half with the right sides together and overlock the lower edge of the pocket bag together.
Now, baste the pocket bag to the leg at the waist and side seam.
Repeat for the other side.
With the right sides together, pin the right front to the right back at the inner seam.
Overlock together. Press the seams towards the back.
Repeat for the left side.
Now, with the right sides together pin the front to the back at the side seams. Overlock together and then press the side seams towards the back.
Repeat for the left side.
We will now join the two legs together.
With one leg inside out, place the other leg, right side out, inside the first leg, so the right sides are together.
Pin the two pieces together at the crotch seam.
Overlock the crotch seam together and then press the seam to one side.
3 — Construct and Attach Waistband
If the size you are sewing has your waistband in two pieces, you will need to join them together. With the right sides together, pin them at the centre front. Overlock and then press the seam to one side.
Note that this seam is not shown in the following photographs.
Transfer the waistband top stitching indication lines, and buttonhole placement from the Waistband Template onto the right side using tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen.
Following your sewing machine’s manual, sew two buttonholes on the waistband at centre front, as indicated on the Waistband Template.
With the right sides together, pin the centre back seam of the waistband and then overlock. Press the seam to one side.
With the wrong sides together, pin the lower waistband edges together.
Baste the edges together with your sewing machine, leaving an opening about 5cm wide at the centre back.
Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through the waistband.
Pin the ends together securely with a 2cm overlap. Now try your waistband on to check it is sitting comfortably and adjust the elastic as needed.
Once your waistband is comfortable, sew the two elastic ends together with your sewing machine. Now, close up the opening in your waistband with a basting stitch on your sewing machine.
We will now top stitch the waistband. Distribute the gathers evenly around the waist and pin through the elastic and fabric to hold it in place.
Starting at the centre back, top stitch the waistband following the markings you made at the beginning of this step. You will need to stretch the elastic as you sew so you don’t create any tucks in the waistband fabric.
We will now attach the waistband to the pants.
Pin the waistband to the pants with the right sides together matching the seams and notches.
Now, machine baste the waistband and pant at the waist, then overlock them together.
Press the seam downwards.
4 — Hemming and Finishing
With the right sides together, pin the side edge of the cuff piece together then overlock. Press the seam to one side.
Now, fold the cuff in half, wrong sides together, following the pre-pressing you made at the beginning, and press again.
Pin the cuff to the hem of the pants with the right sides together and the cuff seam sitting at the inner leg.
Basting a few stitches through all layers at the notches and seam can help keep everything aligned when you are overlocking.
Overlock the cuff to the leg, stretching the cuff as you sew.
Press the seam up towards the leg.
Using a cover seam, twin needle, or your preferred finishing stitch, stitch the cuff seam allowance to the leg.
Repeat for the other leg.
Neaten the hem edge of the pant. Fold up the hem 3cm as indicated by the notches and pin.
With a twin needle, cover seam, or your preferred finishing stitch, stitch the hem in place. Press.
Repeat for the other leg.
Carefully cut each buttonhole open on your waistband.
Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the drawstring through the channel.
Fold each end of the drawstring over 1cm, two times. Edge stitch to secure.
Ditch stitch in the middle channel at the centre back to secure the drawstring.
Clip your loose threads and give your pant a final press. All complete!
Check out the Cloud Set patterns in our Online Store here.
Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!
Cloud makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSCloud so others can check out your creations!